Skingraft SS15 at NYFW
Posted: Sep 17 2014
Skingraft SS15 took the center stage at New York Fashion Week last week. As the golden child in high street fashion the past years, there was much anticipation leading up to the show.
Being an LA-based fashion house with a characteristic silhouette and street-goth aesthetics, many were curious to see the direction the label would take with their second showing at NYFW.
As stated in the show’s informational script, designer Jonny Cota drew inspiration from Mexican and Santeria prayer altars when creating the collection. Known for dark and neutral tones, the palette of the spring/summer collection promised a new take on the Skingraft’s aesthetics, adding “elements of blood, smoke, earth and bones”.
James Eagles Collaboration
As mentioned above, Jonny Cota drew inspiration from Santeria, a syncretic religion of West Africa and the Caribbean, in which blood through animal sacrifice plays an important part. The elements of blood in the collection came through a collaboration with James Eagles. The New York based artist has invented a technique for preserving blood samples (obtained from a slaughter house, just to be clear), and creates strong visual art with blood spatter in Plexiglas. The collaboration with Eagles was shown with blood prints on vests, shorts, dresses, and bomber jackets, all perfectly crafted to the Skingraft silhouettes we have come to love.
Going further with the red-on-black color palette, the collection showed some incredible pieces with embroidered elements of dia de los muertos, or day of the dead. The designer’s Mexican inspirations were apparent in an incredible sugar skull, with accompanying floral embroideries, applied in both the mens and the womens collection.
Smoke and Bone
More in line with Skingraft’s regular color palette, we saw a collection of smoke prints, delicately applied to ivory colors. The prints are beautifully encompassed in silk bombers, dresses, tees and shorts, showing the designer’s unique ability to work with different fabrics.
It’s still Skingraft!
Despite the incredible progress the label has experienced the past years, it’s great to see that the spirit of Skingraft lives on. The collection still includes jaw-dropping leather pieces, all-black outfits, and underlying dark tones.
It’s great to see Jonny Cota avoiding the pitfalls of catering to a larger market, and still being able to hold on the spirit that got it all started.